BUILDING A STAIRWAY IN A TIGHT 1923 HOME SPACE
Tackling a renovation on a historic home means working with limitations that modern house plans rarely have. One of the most common hurdles in older properties is figuring out how to build a functional, safe staircase in a severely restricted area. For our 1923 home project, we had to design and install a stairway that fit into a very tight footprint while still utilizing building practices appropriate for the era. Here is a breakdown of how we made it work.
WORKING WITH RESTRICTED DIMENSIONS
To make the stairs fit, we had to get creative with our measurements and layout. The staircase features nine-inch treads and eight-inch risers. While standard modern stairs might feature deeper treads or lower risers, these dimensions were necessary to squeeze the staircase into the designated area. We started with three steps going down to a landing that incorporates a diagonal step, also known as a winder, before continuing down the rest of the way. This diagonal step was a crucial space-saving feature that allowed us to make the necessary turn without requiring a massive, flat landing platform.
USING PERIOD-ACCURATE LUMBER AND FRAMING
When framing stairs for a 1920s house, the materials are distinctly different from what you pull off the rack today. The lumber used here is true dimensional lumber. For example, our 2x6s are actually two inches thick by six inches wide, not the modern 1.5 by 5.5 inches. We utilized 1x10 and 1x12 stringers with one-inch treads and opted for an open-riser design. In the 1920s, a closet or space beneath a staircase like this would have been closed off with lath and plaster to create a ceiling underneath, hiding the open framing and preventing dust and debris from accumulating in hard-to-clean areas.
CUSTOM NOTCHING FOR STRUCTURAL SUPPORT
To support the transition through the floor framing, we installed one-inch sheathing sitting on top of the wall and floor joists. Unlike modern tongue-and-groove subflooring, this would have traditionally been square-edge sheathing. To provide better structural integrity, we cut a dado, or notch, into the header. This allowed the sheathing to sit securely inside the slot, creating a robust support system for the opening. It is important to note that this header was also notched directly into the 2x4 wall framing stud. While building inspectors today might flag that technique, it was a standard, reliable practice back when there were no formal building codes or inspectors.
MAXIMIZING HEADROOM AND NAVIGATING DOORWAYS
A critical part of squeezing stairs into tight areas is managing the headroom and dealing with nearby door jambs. To maximize clearance, we stopped the stringers just short of where they could have protruded, though extending them to support the floor sheathing above is also a viable option. You can manipulate the ceiling line by having the plaster or drywall angle up with the stairs, saving valuable inches for overhead clearance. Additionally, when dropping a stringer down near a doorway, it is visually best to butt the stringer tight against the wall framing rather than bringing the stair tread directly into the door trim, which rarely looks aesthetically pleasing.
BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER
Framing a staircase in a 1923 home requires balancing structural integrity, spatial limitations, and historical building techniques. By utilizing custom diagonal landings, period-accurate lumber sizes, and strategic notching, you can safely navigate a tricky vintage floor plan.
3 KEY TIPS FOR VINTAGE STAIR FRAMING
ACCOUNT FOR TRUE LUMBER DIMENSIONS: Always measure the actual thickness of salvaged or period-correct wood. True 2x6s and 1x12s will completely change your stringer layout and rise/run calculations compared to modern dimensional lumber.
UTILIZE DIAGONAL WINDER STEPS: When you lack the square footage for a full flat landing, splitting the landing with a diagonal step can help you make a 90-degree turn while eating up less horizontal floor space.
PRIORITIZE CLEARANCE OVER SYMMETRY: In tight historic homes, you may need to clip framing studs or angle the under-stair ceiling to meet minimum headroom requirements. Function and safety must come before a perfectly square aesthetic.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT STAIR FRAMING
While the techniques above highlight how a 1923 home was put together, it is important to understand how those old methods compare to modern structural standards if you are pulling permits today.
WHAT IS THE MODERN BUILDING CODE FOR WINDER (DIAGONAL) STAIRS?
Modern building codes have strict regulations for winder stairs to prevent tripping hazards, a rule that did not exist in the 1920s. Today, the International Residential Code (IRC) requires that winder treads have a minimum depth of 10 inches when measured 12 inches out from the narrowest side, and the absolute narrowest point cannot be less than 6 inches wide. This structural reasoning ensures a person's foot has enough bearing surface to safely pivot on the turn. If you are calculating this complex geometry for a permitted remodel, a high-quality stair gauge and a reliable framing square will be essential tools to accurately mark those specific tread angles.
ARE OPEN RISERS STILL ALLOWED BY BUILDING CODES TODAY?
You might love the historic look of open risers, but modern safety standards require some extra attention. Current building codes state that open risers on stairs located more than 30 inches above the floor must not allow a 4-inch sphere to pass through the opening. This code was implemented to prevent young children from slipping backward through the stairs. To keep the open-concept look while meeting structural code, you can easily install a blocking strip or a partial riser under the back of each tread using a pneumatic finish nailer and some construction adhesive to close the gap to under 4 inches.
HOW DO YOU REINFORCE A NOTCHED STRINGER OR HEADER TO MEET MODERN STANDARDS?
As mentioned in the 1920s build, notching a header directly into a framing stud was common practice, but today it is often considered a weak point. When you remove a significant portion of a stud or a stringer to create a dado or notch, you compromise the wood's load-bearing capacity by creating stress concentrations where cracks can easily start. To satisfy modern structural code, instead of deep notches, you should support headers and stringers using galvanized steel hardware. Grabbing a set of Simpson Strong-Tie stringer connectors and securing them with structural wood screws will give you a code-compliant, rock-solid connection without cutting away the structural integrity of your lumber.
