THE EVOLUTION OF THE MAIL-ORDER KIT HOME
BUYING A HOME OUT OF A CATALOG
In the early 1900s, purchasing a home was as simple as placing an order through a catalog. These kits were remarkably affordable, with some models priced comfortably under 500 dollars. However, buyers had to navigate early financing structures. A cash discount was always preferred, but financing the build added notable interest costs. Terms were strict, often requiring a 25 percent down payment with the remaining balance due cash-on-delivery.
WHAT WAS ACTUALLY INCLUDED?
For the purchase price, a buyer received a two-story or single-story materials package that included almost everything needed to frame the shell of the house. Notably missing from these deliveries were the foundation materials, plumbing, and electrical components. Homes from this era were built to the bare minimum. Many were constructed without interior finishes like lath and plaster or modern drywall. To combat drafts, early homeowners resorted to layering newspaper over the bare studs or throwing heavy rugs on the subfloor to keep the cold air out. Exterior siding was typically a standard 1x8 lap board, with upgraded roofing shingles available only at an additional cost.
QUIRKY FLOOR PLANS AND HISTORIC HEATING
Looking closely at original catalog floor plans reveals how drastically daily living has changed. Rooms were incredibly small by today's standards, often measuring just 8x10 feet, and navigating the house usually meant walking directly through one bedroom to reach another. Closets, kitchen cabinets, and dedicated bathrooms were virtually non-existent in these budget models, as those amenities did not become standard until after the 1930s.
Heating these homes presented a unique challenge. Entire floor plans relied on a single fireplace, usually located in the kitchen or living room. Because modern central air conditioning and forced-air heating did not exist, warming the house required leaving interior doors open to allow the fireplace heat to circulate. In larger models, closing a bedroom door meant completely cutting off that room's heat supply.
THE ABSENCE OF EARLY BUILDING CODES
Unlike today's highly regulated construction industry, early kit homes were built with almost zero oversight. Comprehensive building codes did not become widely adopted and enforced until the 1950s. Foundations were often simple brick stacks or basic blocks resting on the dirt, offering no resistance to earthquakes or soil settling. Despite these primitive methods, many of these structures are still standing today, serving as a testament to the durability of old-growth lumber and the ingenuity of early DIY homebuilders.
THREE KEY CONSTRUCTION TIPS INSPIRED BY HISTORIC BUILDS
PLAN FOR PROPER AIRFLOW AND HVAC: Historic homes struggled with heat distribution due to closed-off floor plans. When designing or remodeling a space today, ensure that return air vents and HVAC zones are properly calculated so that every room maintains a consistent temperature, even with the doors closed.
NEVER SKIMP ON WEATHERPROOFING: Early builders used newspaper to stop drafts. Today, we have far better technology. Always prioritize a high-quality house wrap and proper wall insulation to create a tight building envelope, which dramatically lowers energy costs and prevents moisture damage.
VERIFY FOUNDATION LOAD PATHS: Kit homes often rested on simple brick blocks. Modern construction requires a continuous load path from the roof down to a reinforced concrete footing. Always ensure your foundation is properly engineered for your specific soil type and local seismic or wind requirements.
BONUS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF UPGRADING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS IN THESE EARLY KIT HOMES?
Moving beyond the lack of insulation and basic framing found in historic kits, another major hurdle for renovators is modernizing the utilities. Because homes built before the 1930s rarely included original electrical wiring, any existing systems were likely retrofitted decades later using outdated knob-and-tube methods. Modern building codes require that all home wiring meet strict safety standards to prevent fire hazards, which means upgrading to copper wiring, properly grounded outlets, and installing Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) breakers in the main panel. When pulling new non-metallic sheathed cable (commonly known as Romex) through enclosed historic walls, a high-quality fiberglass fish tape is an indispensable tool that allows electricians to navigate tight stud bays without destroying the original plaster or woodwork.
HOW DO MODERN FOUNDATION REQUIREMENTS DIFFER FROM THE BRICK PIERS USED IN THE EARLY 1900S?
While we marvel at the simplicity of ordering a house for 500 dollars, the brick block foundations mentioned in these old catalogs would never pass a modern inspection. Today's residential building codes require a continuous, steel-reinforced concrete footing poured below the local frost line to prevent the house from heaving during winter freezes. Furthermore, the wooden sill plate of the home must be mechanically fastened to the concrete foundation using embedded anchor bolts to resist seismic activity and severe wind uplift. When pouring a modern structural footing or retrofitting a historic one, using a heavy-duty rotary hammer drill is required to properly bore into the existing concrete and securely set heavy-duty epoxy anchors for maximum structural integrity.
WHAT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS MUST BE TAKEN WHEN DEMOLISHING OR REMODELING INTERIORS FROM THIS ERA?
Understanding the evolution of interior finishes from bare studs to plastered walls brings up a critical modern safety concern: hazardous materials. Homes built or renovated in the early to mid-20th century almost certainly contain lead-based paint and asbestos-containing materials in the flooring, mastic, or joint compounds. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) strictly regulates the disturbance of these materials through the Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) rule, which mandates specific containment and disposal procedures to prevent toxic dust exposure. Before tearing into the walls of a historic kit home, contractors must test the surfaces and utilize a certified HEPA dust extractor vacuum paired with proper respiratory protection to ensure the air quality remains safe throughout the demolition process.
