UNDERSTANDING 1887 LONDON BUILDING MATERIAL PRICES
The late 19th century was a golden age of construction in London. By 1887, the city was sprawling outward at an astonishing rate, fueled by population booms and the expansion of the metropolitan railway systems. For contractors and builders of the time, sourcing reliable and cheap building materials was just as critical then as it is today. Examining the material prices from 1887 reveals a fascinating picture of the Victorian construction industry.
THE IMPACT OF TRANSPORTATION ON MATERIAL COSTS
In the earlier parts of the 19th century, heavy materials like stone, brick, and slate had to be sourced locally or transported at great expense. However, by 1887, London benefited from a mature network of canals and railways. This infrastructure drastically reduced freight costs. Welsh slate, for example, became the standard roofing material across the city because it could be shipped inexpensively by rail, undercutting local clay tile producers. Timber imported from the Baltic regions and North America could be transported directly into the city's docks and distributed quickly to building sites.
THE COST OF BRICKS AND MORTAR
The iconic London stock brick was the backbone of Victorian construction. In 1887, a thousand of these standard bricks could be purchased for a fraction of today's equivalent costs. Because they were manufactured in massive brickfields on the outskirts of the city, supply was abundant. Builders combined these bricks with traditional lime mortar. Unlike modern Portland cement, which was still gaining traction for everyday residential builds, lime mortar was cheap, breathable, and allowed the buildings to settle naturally without cracking the masonry.
TIMBER AND INTERIOR FINISHES
Softwood timber, primarily deals and battens, made up the framing, flooring, and roof structures of these 1887 homes. Because it was largely imported, the prices fluctuated based on maritime trade conditions, but standard dimensions were mass-produced to keep costs manageable for the working-class housing boom. Interior walls were finished using traditional lath and plaster, a labor-intensive but cost-effective method given the low wages of plasterers at the time.
LESSONS FROM VICTORIAN BUILDERS
While the prices of 1887 are long gone, the legacy of how these materials were used remains. The Victorian emphasis on durable, breathable materials like fired clay and lime-based binders resulted in homes that have stood the test of time. Today, as we look for sustainable and enduring building methods, the practical, cost-effective choices made by 19th-century London tradesmen still offer valuable lessons for modern masonry and restoration work.
THREE KEY TIPS
WHEN WORKING ON HISTORIC HOMES, ALWAYS USE LIME MORTAR INSTEAD OF MODERN CEMENT. Modern Portland cement traps moisture and is too hard for soft historic bricks, which will cause the brick faces to spall and crumble over time.
PRIORITIZE BREATHABILITY IN OLDER STRUCTURES. Victorian houses were designed to breathe through their materials and drafty chimneys. When retrofitting for energy efficiency, ensure you maintain proper ventilation to prevent dampness and structural rot.
CONSIDER RECLAIMED MATERIALS FOR AUTHENTICITY. If you are replacing damaged flooring or masonry, sourcing reclaimed London stock brick or period-correct Baltic pine will ensure structural compatibility and preserve the aesthetic integrity of the property.
BONUS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Transitioning from historical practices to modern applications often brings up technical challenges for today's builders, especially when trying to integrate strict modern standards with centuries-old architecture. Below are a few common questions regarding the structural realities of working on these vintage properties.
HOW DO YOU MEET MODERN INSULATION CODES IN A SOLID BRICK VICTORIAN WALL?
Building codes today require strict thermal efficiency (R-values) to reduce energy consumption, which a traditional solid brick wall from the 1800s cannot meet on its own. Because solid masonry relies on drying out through vapor permeability, you cannot simply pack the walls with standard closed-cell foam or fiberglass. Instead, the building code allows for internal wall insulation using vapor-open materials like wood fiber boards. When doing this framing work, using a high-quality masonry drill bit on your rotary hammer ensures you can anchor your new studwork securely into the historic brick without shattering the delicate masonry.
WHY IS SISTERING JOISTS REQUIRED WHEN UPDATING PLUMBING IN VINTAGE HOMES?
In the late 19th century, floor joists were often undersized by today's load-bearing standards, and early plumbers frequently notched these joists dangerously deep to run iron pipes. Modern building codes strictly limit the depth and location of notches in structural lumber to maintain the integrity of the floor diaphragm and prevent structural failure. If you encounter over-notched historical timber, you must sister a new joist alongside it to restore the load path. Applying a strong construction adhesive alongside your heavy-duty structural screws is a great way to prevent future floor squeaks while permanently tying the old and new lumber together.
WHAT IS THE CODE REQUIREMENT FOR REPOINTING HISTORIC CHIMNEYS?
Chimneys built in the 1880s were subjected to decades of coal smoke, which creates sulfuric acid that slowly eats away at the mortar joints from the inside out. Modern safety codes mandate that any active chimney must be structurally sound and completely free of gaps where dangerous exhaust gases or sparks could leak into the living space or attic. Proper repointing requires removing the degraded mortar to a depth of at least twice the width of the joint before applying fresh lime mortar. To speed up the removal process while protecting the historic brick edges, an oscillating multi-tool fitted with a diamond grit grout-removal blade is highly recommended, as it offers much more precision than a standard angle grinder.
